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We are now on our way back home.  We will be stopping along the way, but we are on a deadline for Caroline's wedding shower duties - The pressure's on!

7/30/01

We started the day by going to Thomas Jefferson's home, Monticello. 

From the south side    From the north side

It was a rainy morning, but the rain stopped coming down when we got to Monticello.  There is already a lot written about Thomas Jefferson, so it doesn't pay to go into anything here. 

I can tell you that I was again struck by the fact that Thomas Jefferson and a number of other early public servants ended up bankrupting themselves because they didn't pay enough attention to their farms while they were away fulfilling an office.  Jefferson's estate and slaves were sold upon his death because he was in terrible debt.  This is in such stark contrast to the world today where the office is really a device to get more money for themselves one way or another.  Either as a lobbyist or by providing access later on. 

In these pictures you see the south and north sides of the house.  Jefferson was the architect for his house, and didn't really have a front door per se.  People arrived on either side depending on what you were using to get there.  Carriages generally came to the north side.

Jefferson's grave

We stopped by the Jefferson family graveyard to see the stone.  Of all the things that Jefferson did, he only wanted to be remembered for these three.  He was quite an extraordinary person in his day. 

Monroe's statue    The back of the house

After Monticello we headed for Ashlawn Highlands, the home of Monroe.  The house is not nearly as interesting or grand, but Monroe didn't bankrupt himself or his family either.  Monroe was 17 years younger than Jefferson and was a law student of Jefferson's.  They were very good friends and had adjoining lands.

Monroe was the actual negotiator for the Louisiana Purchase.  it ruined his political career at that time under Jefferson.  But Monroe went on to greater things by becoming President.

The house itself is relatively plain.  It was altered from the way it was when Monroe was living there.  Monroe also had other houses besides this one, so it's understandable that it wasn't the best showpiece in the neighborhood.  The yellow part of the house in the pictures didn't exist in Monroe's time.  This side of the house faces the outbuildings.  The front of the house is to the right.

There was a large stage that is used for concerts and cultural events right in the front of the house.  So it's hard to get any decent pictures of it at all.

A four foot black snake

While we were walking around the house this four foot Black Snake crawled across the path and then went up the tree.  Caroline is a little sensitive to snakes and was not happy to realize they can climb a tree so easily.

Back of Monroe's house    View towards Monticello

This is the view of the back garden.  When you stand in the door and look towards the hills you can see Monticello.  The orange arrow points out the spot.  The two trees are the two oaks that flank the main part of the house at Monticello.

After we completed the house touring we started heading for Knoxville.  It was a long way off and we didn't arrive until almost 9 PM.  Fortunately the pool was open when we got there and no one was home so I took a swim and felt very refreshed.  K-Kin, Keith, her father, and their kids showed up shortly thereafter and we spent the next several hours chatting until bed.

We did have some good BBQ for dinner in a town called Wytheville.  We did get to enjoy some local color while there. 

As we were eating some really fine BBQ a man walked in who had just become a local celebrity by being on the evening news the previous night.  He had some mules he was showing at a local show.  There were some events that showed certain training of the mules.  The man went on to explain how the mules were smarter than horses but more stubborn.  He stated explicitly that he had to "just explain what was needed and then show the mule how to do it, and they would remember how to do it forever".  He went on and on in this manner while waiting for his order.  We dubbed him the Mule Whisperer and finished our dinner before we broke out in too much laughter.

7/31/01

Today started with a lot of conversation about everything and nothing.  Then we got down to some serious touring around Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg.  We think you'd have to go to Las Vegas to get a higher density tacky tourist reading on your trusty tacky tourist, kitschy krap meter.

Ode to Dolly Parton

We headed into downtown Pigeon Forge because we had to see the Dolly statue.  Dollywood and a host of other Dolly Parton sanctioned tourist extravaganzas are all around this area.  This statue was created in 1987, and Dolly is really from this town.  Keith was good enough to tell me a couple of the local Dolly stories since he went to high school at the same time she did.

The Christmas Place

Next we visited the Christmas Place.  This is the store that Keith and family own and run.  It does have a very cool collection of trains that run all over the place.  And a couple of you are going to get goodies from here, and I bet you know who you are..

Tacky Tourist wear

We headed for Gatlinburg, which is a higher density tacky tourist place than Pigeon Forge, and only a few miles away.  Pigeon Forge requires a car, but you can walk around Gatlinburg to see all the sights.  We wanted to see the IMAX movie about bears, but were thwarted by a renovation that was underway in the theatre.

Never wanting to waste an opportunity, Caroline got some pictures of the more interesting sights in Gatlinburg.

Gates of Dollywood

We did drive to the gates of Dollywood just to see what we could see.  And then we started breaking out in hives, pulled a u-turn and made our escape.

Get 'yer bibles discounted here!!

As we left Dollywood we were captivated by another store.  You have to understand that in this area there are more factory outlets per square mile than anyplace else on earth.  This particular one tickled us a lot.  We just couldn't fathom it at all, but there it was all the same.

K-kin gets the slide show and the geek talk

We headed back to the house and I played geek for a while, then we had dinner.  After dinner K-kin needed to understand what was done to her computer and also wanted to see the pics from the rest of the tour.  Caroline thinks that when ever I do a slide show I need to have my picture taken.

A great way to end the day

While we were looking at pics, the rest of the family was enjoying the warm night air and the delightful pool.

Tomorrow we have to leave this lovely place and all the great people here.  Westward ho!

8/1/01

Today we started with the usual conversations that seemed to never end since it was always interesting and comfortable.  But, after spending some time in and around the pool we headed to Memphis, TN.

Miles and the Crocodile    Stephanie puts the headlock on K-kin

The first picture is K-kin's son Miles, and the little girl is her daughter Stephanie.

K-kin's home is very inviting and it was great to stay there, but after some pool time we needed to head out again. 

We continued along Route 40 for a while and ran across a Tennessee winery, Stonehaus.  We couldn't resist stopping and tasting, and using the Deli for some lunch.  The wine won't take over the market, but we did grab a bottle for Caroline's nightcap.

We also tried to get a good sampling of the country music that was coming across the airwaves on the radio.  Since Route 40 is the Music Highway for most of the way across the state it seemed fitting.  We decided the best lines we heard from a song about a jealous trucker were;

Mama was a looker, Mama loved men.
Mama's in the graveyard, Papa's in the pen.

Casey Jones' engine

Along the way we stumbled across the home of Casey Jones.  For those of you that are not up on your American Folk History, Casey Jones was a train engineer with a stellar reputation for always being on time, no matter what.  One night he was running hard trying to make up time, was going very fast, and another train was stalled at a washed out track.  Casey had his fireman jump off the train and save himself.  Casey stayed behind and kept on the brake up to the point the engine demolished itself on the caboose of the stalled train.

Casey is credited with saving everyone on the train, all of whom walked away from the accident, except Casey who gave his life to save the others.  This picture is a reconstruction of his old engine.

Grape vines choking trees along the road in Tennessee

As we continued through Tennessee Caroline noticed the wild grape vines that were choking a lot of trees along the road.  Caroline thought it looked really neat and wanted a picture of it.  I can remember my youthful days struggling with the damn things trying to save various trees at people's houses.  Caroline has never had that wonderful experience so she thinks they are neat.  Perspective is everything..

As we got closer to Memphis we figured we would stop in at Graceland and see what all the fuss was about.  And, Caroline decided that we needed to bag another state on this trip, so we went down into Mississippi to have dinner.  That brings the total states we've been in, so far, to twenty.

Tomorrow we'll take the Graceland tour, and then continue westward.  It is hot as blazes all the time, and the humidity makes the air thick as a Mississippi accent.

8/2/01

Today started very well, and then we got the call.  Caroline's dad was in the intensive care unit and not doing well.  We were heading off down the street to see Graceland, the mansion and grounds.  It was a somber set of contrasts and similarities.

Caroline at the steps to the mansion    Peacock stained glass windows say it all

We started by entering the mansion and grounds, with thoughts of whether or not Caroline's dad would come out of this OK.  Indications from the previous evening were good.  Just like entering Elvis' mansion, which previously belonged to a doctor, you think everything is going to be OK.  And then you hit the peacock stained glass windows in the living room, and you know all is not well.

Seventies stage costumes    Awards and stage costumes

We continue through the house and then go out to the racquetball court and gym building.  The actual court has been turned into a costume and award shrine.  The emphasis is on the seventies costumes that were used in the stage act.  Apparently the awards are still being granted, posthumously.

And we continued to wonder about Allen's condition while being assaulted with the Elvis extremes of taste.  And knowing that even though nothing in the estate talks about his drug habit, or his womanizing, or any of the less idyllic habits that Elvis had, you knew they were there.

Elvis and his family's graves

And then we got the the Elvis family graves.  It somehow was less overwhelming to see that the god Elvis was human after all.  And we wondered about our own frailties and why Elvis was such a phenomenon, like no other.

A drink in a Cadillac

After we were done with the tour we got Caroline a drink in a Cadillac.  We resisted the tour of the airplanes and the Elvis car collection.  We had miles to go.  And the thoughts of Allen festered.  We continued to try and figure out what made Elvis so popular.  We like his music and we think he's talented, but what gave him such appeal beyond the grave?  Was it a martyr thing, or maybe the fact that he was the first mainstream white performer of the genre?  Who knows?  It's just one of those things to ponder..

Finally, deep in the middle of nowhere Arkansas as we sped westward, the latest reports on Allen were not good.  Caroline made a decision to head for the hospital with all haste.  We went to the Little Rock airport and put her on a plane.  Her brothers are converging at the hospital too, one is already there as I write this. 

It puts a somber note on our trip, and makes us think of all the wonderful things that we've done and seen.  And made us more grateful for having the chance to do so.  For when we get to the end of our respective roads, we will want to have spent time with people that we love and care for deeply, known a lot about as much as possible, and seen as much of the world as we could.

Caroline and I are very lucky to have each other and the time that we spend together in exotic places with great people.  And we are feeling very good about having stopped in to see Allen for a couple of days on the way north.  And then we recount our blessings and continue on.

8/3/01

Today started in Oklahoma City.  And I had to get to Santa Fe, NM.  It was a long mileage day.  But the scenery got a lot better.  Somehow last night I crossed from the lush and vivid greens of the east coast out to the plains of the midwest.  And then on onward to the high plains and painted geology of New Mexico.

Monster cross in Texas

On the way across Texas' panhandle I ran across this cross.  According to the billboard it's the largest cross in the western hemisphere.  It promised that you could feel the spirituality when you stand next to it.  I thought it looked kitschy enough that it deserved a picture, but I wasn't motivated enough to get closer.  Besides, it looked like it was covered in aluminum siding.  I hate aluminum siding, even at the risk of spiritual neglect.

My Aunt Sonya    The Coyote Cafe across the way

I arrived at my Aunt Sonya's house, at the same moment that she got there.  How fortuitous!  We chatted away the afternoon and then went into town for dinner at the Blue Corn Cafe. 

While waiting to get seated we gazed across at the Coyote Cafe.  This is a significant place because we have had a chile poster hanging in our kitchen as long as I've lived there and it comes from the Coyote Cafe.  It's a very small world in the chile art circles.

Then we went home and did the usual things one does late at night like update the web site, etc..

8/4/01

Today was a very relaxing day for me.  Sonya and I went to the farmers market to get some goodies for dinner and then had some breakfast together and chatted about all sorts of things the whole time. 

Then I headed into town to deal with several things in the maintenance department including changing the oil in the car, getting a haircut, and then going to the Georgia Okeeffe museum.  There was also a little fair in the plaza that was interesting for all the crafts on display.

Sonya on the patio    The view west from the patio

After I got back from all the morning activities, I took a bunch of pictures of the house to share with Caroline who is still at her dad's bedside.  The first picture is the view from the upstairs porch.  This is the sweeping view of Santa Fe.

The second picture is the view to the west from the patio that you can see in the first picture.

Storms coming down from the mountains

After we got a bunch of chores done around the house we headed into the mountains.  Sonya wanted to say goodbye to them because she will be leaving for a while too.

We ended the day by making some margaritas.  Then we cranked up the BBQ and made some New York steak, lamb chops, grilled peppers and onions, and finished up with some fruit salad and fudge.

Tomorrow I start the next leg homeward.  I'm not yet sure what the route will be, but I'm going to try and make it something better than interstate.

8/5/01

I got a late start today because talking to Sonya is always interesting, and I couldn't tear myself away. 

There wasn't much on the agenda for this leg of the trip.  I'm heading for LA to visit with more relatives.  The only thing that I really want to see on the way across is The Painted Desert and The Petrified Forest.

Very red rocks    Driving rain on The Painted Desert    Heavily striated hills

Driving west from Santa Fe was loaded with lots of great views of colorful rock formations.  And it kept building until the thunderstorms started near the border of Arizona.  The lightning was impressive, and sometimes was close enough to make the thunder shake the car like a New York pothole.

These pictures are from The Painted Desert.  The middle picture is foggy because of all the rain that was coming down.  At that picture, I almost got the door ripped out of my hand by the wind when I got out to take the shot.

Fallen petrified tree    Count the rings

The Petrified Forest is a place where a bunch of regular trees got petrified by natural forces.  The tree's normal material has been replaced with Agate, and the colors are a combination of the soil and the tree itself.

Some of the trees are still sitting the way they fell.  And others have been disturbed by water, erosion, or people.  They are quite beautiful, and so different from the usual natural crystal formations you run across.

Colorful formations    A real bunny baby

Some of the colors in the Painted Desert look very similar to the Badlands in South Dakota.  I think the colors here are better and the formations are more interesting. 

This little bunny was sitting by the trail on the way to the Agate House.

The Agate House

The Agate House is a recreation of an Indian dwelling from long ago.  It's not much of a house, but the "stones" are really terrific.

After all the sightseeing I had to cover some serious mileage.  I ended the day at Kingman, AZ, and am poised to hit LA tomorrow.  The Mojave is likely to hit 110 degrees tomorrow according to the local weather service.  I hope the AC hangs in there..

8/6/01

There aren't any pictures from today.  It was a very high mileage day through the Mojave Desert and across southern CA to LA.  I did come across through Big Bear Lake and got to see that area, at least the parts you can see from the road. 

The weight of Caroline's father's condition is heavy and I'm feeling the burden of not knowing how to help Caroline, or how much longer this will continue.  I'm torn between heading up to her side and waiting for things to conclude.  Hopefully tomorrow will bring some sense of direction for me.

8/7/01

Today was a slow LA day.  Bob and I fooled around in LA doing various errands while catching up with each other's lives. 

Cocktails at the beach in Venice

We ended the day on the beach at Venice Beach while watching the sun fall into the ocean.  I did stick my toes in the water to officially bring myself back to the left coast.  I dipped the other toe in the water for Caroline since she is still up in Eureka watching over her father.  Things still look pretty grim up there.

8/8/01

Today I left for home.  I drove from LA back to our house.  It was an anticlimactic homecoming since Caroline is still up in Eureka.  It does feel good to get back in touch with people again.

Caroline's dad passed away today.  This is the end of a very stressful period for Caroline and her brothers.  I think Caroline will need a lot of TLC when she gets here tomorrow.

Our US/Canada trip is now over and we have lots of experiences behind us that we will treasure.  The contrast created by Caroline's father passing away makes the joys of the trip especially poignant. 

We have a couple more local California trips before we have to go back to work.  These pages are now closed.